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Biscuits and gravy – two chunks of savoury scone-like bread drenched in a beige gravy – was tastier than it looked, if a teensy bit bland. The erstwhile sloppy joe, on the other hand, was a brilliant, saucy mess of a sandwich. Factor in desserts such as DIY S’mores and a coronary-inducing ‘strawberry funnel cake’ (fried dough topped with strawberries and a tidal wave of whipped cream) and it’s fair to say Boondocks does the kind of indulgent, perfectly imperfect grub that’s made for hangovers, heartbreaks or otherwise. All that, and you’re guaranteed a nap afterwards. SO. MANY. CARBS.
To start, we enjoyed cheese-drenched nachos and a crispy bucket of popcorn shrimp. For mains, the Bring Home the Bacon burger was juicy and cooked to order. Dessert saw a DIY smores kit, with marshmallows, Graham crackers, and chocolate presented next to a mini Bunsen-burner, making for a fun end to the meal. The drinks list is made of up American-themed cocktails and mocktails and the friendly staff were happy to give their recommendations. If you fancy gorging, an expedition to the boondocks of Old Street is well worth the trip.
This summer we are seeing the return of the Creole crawfish boils (parties centred on shrimp, crab and crawfish
— a Louisiana Cajun tradition) hosted by Bea Vo, the founder of bakery Bea’s of Bloomsbury at her new Boondocks venture in east London.
All of your favourites from Stax Diner are available at Boondocks. This opens up the wonderful world of Stax to a new part of London, so you don’t have to brave being run over by the crowds around Oxford Street to enjoy your favourite Stax burger or chicken and waffles. The Stax Burger, Chickadee and their associated variations are all on offer at Boondocks.
The even more interesting treat is trying the new offerings. A bigger kitchen means there are several new choices, both carnivorous and vegetarian. In addition to new variations of beef and chicken burgers there is a range of new salads, new starters and a selection of ‘Southern Specialties’.
Highlights include the California Dreamin’ Burger, the BBQ Monster, BBQ Chickadee, The Spicy Hot Chickadee, Cheddar Bay Biscuits, Buttery Mashed Potato, Blue Plate Special and Roast Butternut Squash Salad.
The burgers were… Perfectly cooked, mega-meaty and delicious. The 28-day aged beef is the perfect base for Stax's delicious array of toppings; we opted for 'The Big Stax', topped with spicy sauce, maple glazed beef bacon, caramelised onions and cheese. It's all housed in a fluffy brioche bun that holds together well under the weight of your monster burger. Add sides at your peril - this is a big eat..
The new kid on the block, Stax Diner, was opened last month by the restaurateur Bea Vo (her other establishments include Bea's of Bloomsbury and Maltby Street Diner) and already has a dedicated following. Inspired by her road trips through the South as a child, the menu features traditional dishes from Cajon popcorn shrimp to chicken and waffles, but it's the do-it-yourself burgers we love.